This hack is specifically for Android devices that can act as a USB-host.
Why? – To connect USB stuff to your Android device
To connect USB stuff (a mouse, keyboard or memory stick) to your Android device (in my case a Android Tablet) you need a USB host cable. These cables are not sold in your regular shop.
Related posts
Android – more than phones: moving into alternative uses of the Android phone
Hacking away with Android: A series of articles to discover the possibilities of the Android hardware and software for productivity, hardware hacking and cluster-computing
Inside the Archos 32: See the insides of the Archos 32 (and some macro-shots of the screens)
Purpose
Getting the USB host to work is a preparation towards three types of use:
- Using Android Tablets as an alternative for a Netbook – including the use of an external keyboard, external storage, and an external mouse
- Using Android devices (like tablets, hand helds and phones) as distributed computers – each fulfilling a specific task and each capable of communicating to the others and sharing and transferring files
- Using a chain of Android Devices as the “Smart Part” of Roomware installations – allowing Arduino devices and XBee-based devices to become connected to an Application Pool that can extend the local setup to a global installation.
Basis – using the connectors and cutting the cables
Micro USB-host cables are not easy to find, so based on this post where Chris Paget hacks his own USB host cable and some basic Wikipedia information on USB I started doing some cutting, soldering and simple hardware hacking. Your basic needs are as follows:
- You need a Micro-USB connector to plug into your Android Device
- To connect anything to your Android deviceyou can do two things:
- Connect it directly to your Android device
- Connect it to an USB hub, which is connected to your Android device
- For which you need either:
- A female USB connector to connect any other device (like a keyboard, memory stick or mouse) to your Android Device
- A mini-USB connector, type B to connect your Android device to an USB hub
What your need
- A sharp (pen) knife – to cut open the cover of the USB connectors
- A soldering iron and soldering tin – to remove the wires attached to the
- A micro-USB cable – if you want to connect your device to an USB Hub and / or
- A USB extension cable with a USB female connector – If your want to connect USB devices directly to your Android device
- Black tape – to close the cover of your USB connector
The steps in brief
- Liberate your Micro-USB connector – as you need this to create your own cable
- Cut the USB male connector from your cable – as you want to repace that for your Micro-USB connector
- Solder your Micro-USB connector to your USB cable – to make your own USB host cable
- Check your handy-work – as you might make a mistake or create a short cicruit by sloppy soldering
- Close the cover of your connector – using some sticky tape and the old cover you removed, to protect your work and make it less fragile
Step 1: liberating the Micro USB connector
You need a liberated Micro USB connector to plug your home made Host cable into the Android device
- Cut – Use a sharp (pen) knife to cut the cover of the connector along the long side
- Pry open – pry the side open
- Get the connector out – Get the connector and cable out of the cover.
- Pry the cable loose from the cover – The cable is usually stuck to the cover, so be careful when you pry that loose
The result should look like this:
When you open the cover, you will find that the wires on the USB connector are covered with a plastic or plastic-like substance, or that the cover is welded around the cables.Remove this and do not be afraid to damage the wires. You will remove the wires anyway.
Step 2: Cutting the USB male connector from your cable
In this next step you are going to cut the USB male connector from the cable that will by your home-made Android USB Host cable.
- Cut off the USB male connector
- Strip the mantle – to release the wires of the cable
- Strip the tip of the wires – so that you can solder it to the Micro USB cable
Your result after step 1 and 2 should look something like this:
The male USB connector on the right hand side is what was attached to the cable of the female USB connector. The stripped grey cable on the left hand side is what came free and where we will connect the Micro USB connector to.
Step 3: Soldering the Micro-USB connector to your cable
- Remove all the old wires – from your Micro-USB connector (if you have not done that already)
- Solder all the new wires – from your cable to the Micro-USB connector – color schemes given below
- Make it a USB Host connector – Connect pin 4 (the ID pin) to pin 5 (the Ground or GND) to make your Micro-USB cable a USB Host cable
In most cases, your USB cable has the red / white / green / black color scheme. It is possible – in my case when opening the Mini-USB type B connector – that the wires follow a different color scheme. Which was: red / brown / orange and black
The above image shows your the colors, order and placing of the wired from the backside of the Micro-USB connector
Notice the little looped black cable in the top area. This connects Pin 4 (ID) to pin 5 (GND) and is required to make your connector a USB Host connector.
This photo shows another Micro-USB connector, where the soldering points are a bit better defined. Connecting the GND (black) to the ID pin – as is visible in the somewhat blurry photo – is done by extending the wire to that pin and soldering it to both pin 4 (ID) and the official attachment point for the GND.
Step 4: Check the soldering points
The worst thing that can happen is you making either:
- A short circuit between wires by sloppy soldering / using too much tin
- Connecting the wrong color to the wrong pin
Double check your soldering handy work before moving to step 5. Once you have closed the cover on your cable, you do not want to open it again and repeat the steps in 3.
Step 5: Close the connector
As your home-made USB Host cable is fragile, use the shell you cut earlier from your Micro-USB to cover your work.
It might be that you need to do some cutting in the plastic to make room for your soldering work, when the cable was tightly fitting the old configuration.
- Close the cover on your USB connector – using the cover you cut open in step 1.
- Tape it with tape – to fix it all solidly
It should look something like this:
Holding your Micro USB plug steady for soldering
I used the Samsung Galaxy as the “clamp” to hold the Micro USB plug steady while soldering. As the wires in the plug are really thin, not much heat will be transferred to the phone and no damage will be done.
Not all phones / devices support USB host
I found that not all phones support USB host. The Moterola Droid is currently one of the few that does. The G1 might be able too, after installing the CyangenMod. My two Android phones: the LG G540 and the Samsung Galaxy i7500 certainly do not support USB-host without some serious hacking.
The Archos and Archos7
I focused specifically on the Archos7. The Archos family of tablets claims to support both USB host and USB slave. That claim is true, but there are some limitations.
What works:
- A USB keyboard – I bought a Trust keyboard to test
- A USB mouse – I used my Microsoft mouse to test
- A USB hub with 1 and 2
- The Sony eBook reader – Connecting it directly to the Archos7 – The reader does not work via the USB hub!
What does not work (on the Archos 7):
- Connecting the Sony eBook reader via the USB hub
- Connecting a LaCie Rikiki drive to the Archos7, directly or via the USB Hub
I have not tested anything outside this list yet.
The Archos 32 and 101
[Update: Feb 03, 2011]
For the new line of Archos models, including the Archos 32 and Archos 101, the following does work:
- Connecting the Sony eBook reader via the USB hub
- Connecting a LaCie Rikiki drive to the Archos7, directly or via the USB Hub
- Connecting a USB memory stick
I was able to do FTP transfers using AndFTP (FTP client) and SwiFTP (FTP server) between the Android devices I have and between Android devices and my laptop. Read more about that software in part one.
Limitations with Android 2.2 and external storage devices
- It will only recognize one storage device at the time / it can not handle multiple drives. In general it will pick the first plugged in and shift to the next drive when you take the first one out.
- It will only be able to read a limited set of file systems. Use FAT 32 to be on the safe side. NTFS does not work for Android 2.2
Andrew Lindsay
November 8, 2010
Awhile back I tried the cutting and splicing shown on Chris Paget’s blog. But it didn’t work for my Droid 2. Later, I’ve seen a post that says the cabling hack won’t work for the Droid 2. I’d love to get some peripherals working on the phone. As you are experienced in this area, do you have any suggestions?
Thanks in advance,
Andrew
Joe
February 4, 2011
I see in Archos user manual that using the USB Host cable “you can connect a camera, a USB stick, a USB memory card reader, a mouse, a keyboard, a combination mouse/keyboard, or a powered hard drive to your ARCHOS”. I wonder if you have tried supplying external power for the hard drive and gotten it to work? My own interest was just to use an Archos 28/32 connected to usb ssd drive for in car entertainment.
Peter Kaptein
February 4, 2011
The Archos 32 works perfectly with an external drive. The review was based on an Archos 7 with Android 1.6.
Especially in the setup you are thinking about it is wise to have a USB hub that is powered by something else than the Archos tablet. Thus the external storage (including a USB memory stick or hard drive) will not drain the battery.
You will have to find a creative solution for the power supply. Both the Archos tablet and the USB hub run on 5 Volts. Your car outputs 12 Volts on the cigarette lighter.
Then you have to choose the right storage. A 32 GB memory stick roughly buys you a 300 GB external hard drive. The hard drive will – however – be more power-hungry than the memory stick.
I am considering to buy a solar-charged external battery for mobile phones for more testing and hacking on power-source independent solutions. The solar cell / battery combination covers the extra need for power-hungry devices and makes you – theoretically – independent of any power source except the sun. They are pricey. The cheapest I saw was 30 Euro and very likely can barely do the job.
Rob
February 22, 2011
Worked like a charm thanks man :)
jess
April 11, 2011
this is a great hack cheap easy and best of all it works.
if you use some heat shrink tubing instead of the tape you will get something that almost looks off the shelf. thanks for this hack saved me much money not having to buy stuff just to see if it works